Part II - Travelogues from my trip to the North

Day 4 (contd...): After being completely bowled over by the splendor of Golden Temple, it was amidst thick fog that we slowly and cautiously drove out of Amritsar. But the fog did claim its share of casualties that morning. In less than a couple of hours, we witnessed 3 accidents - one involved a car barely 50feet from ours. Not the perfect beginning to our journey to Dev Bhoomi!

Still trying to forget the blood-stained bodies of the accident victims, we made a quick stop at Punjab-Himachal border for some snacks - a stop that later proved quite upsetting for Nitesh...lol.

Thanks to the the thick fog initially and then to the curvaceous ghaats and Nitesh's disturbed system later, it was already noon when we reached the Chintapurni Devi a.k.a. Chinnamastika Devi Temple. The temple is located in the Shivalik mountain range, and amasses huge crowds during the Navratri festival. You take a flight of marble stairs to get to the temple, where the Devi is present in the form of a pindi. The staircase is flanked on both sides with shops, where you can buy prasad [and only then they let you keep your shoes in their shop, as there is no arrangement at the temple], and souvenirs. However, like most other temples, your barely get to see the Holy Pindi, before you are pushed out of the temple, either by the huge crowds behind you or by the pandits and the security personnel around.


We initially had plans to visit all the 4 Devi's [Chintapurni, Jwala, Kangra & Naina Devi], Himachal is so famous for; but now doing so, would have disturbed our plans for McLeodganj and Vaishno Devi. So skipping the visit to the other 3 temples, we headed straight to McLeodganj via Kangra & Dharamshala - a scenic & picturesque drive through the Shivalik range. All through the drive one thought kept coming back to my mind over and over again - If Himachal didn't have the temples & tourist spots it presently has, what would have been a revenue earner for the locals otherwise!

It was about 5 in the evening when we finally reached 'Little Lhasa'. Yes! the town of McLeodganj is also known by this name as everything here is Tibetan - the people, the houses, the temples, the food, the clothes, the art. And why not, after all McLeodganj is now home to His Holiness the Dalai Lama [who was in McLeodganj that day]. We quickly checked-in to a hotel, which to my surprise offered us rooms at almost 80% discounted rates [thanks to the off season]. Soon we were on the streets of McLeodganj appreciating the beauty of the city and its citizens ;o)

The first thing we did was to treat ourselves with some Tibetan delicacies - Soup & Thukpa [flat noodles with vegetables & mild spices]. But this was not before we came across a World Peace march which is organized every year in McLeodganj. People from all age groups take part in the march, which this year certainly was a silent protest against the Chinese atrocities in Lhasa.

After the sumptuous snack we set out on foot for the Tsuglagkhang Temple, which is the main Buddhist temple in McLeodganj. Two things stand out about this place - one, that unlike any other temple in India, you can carry a [video] camera even inside the sanctum sanctorum; and two, even amidst the huge tourist rush, the Buddhist monks perform their services with the same composure & calm, as if they were the only ones there. The open terraces, the Stupas, the prayer wheels, the idols of Guru Padmasambhava & Avalokiteśvara; they all give the temple a mystical appeal & the candle list porches only added to the awe.


The temple houses the entire collection of the Sanskrit & English versions of Lord Buddha's preaching, and ancient Tibetan texts. I was always very curious to know why Buddhists rotate these 'cylinders'; and this curiosity was finally brought to rest by a monk on the temple premises who told us that, on these prayer wheels are inscribed hundreds of shloks & hyms, and rotating each wheel is equivalent to reciting all that is incribed on it. Sure is something of the lazy bones [no offences meant]!!


It was getting late, and crowds from the streets were soon vanishing - not that everyone was retiring in their hotel room; the place has some great eating [and obviously drinking] joints, right from Italian, to Tibetan to Chinese to Punjabi - everything can be found here. We decided to quench our thirst before we were to call it a [loooooong] day, and the pub Xcite was just the place to be! Kingfisher for me, and Smirnoff for Nitesh, some [pea]nuts to crack, and meat to bite - some ending for Day 4!!

Day 5: I never had seen a more beautiful morning than what I stood witness to that day from my hotel room. On one side was the sun rising behind the snow capped mountains, and on the other was the valley, which glowed in the morning sun. A picture perfect setting for a cuppa, and we didn't miss on that!!


Rushing through the morning chores and getting over with our driver's khit-pit we reached the base of the Bhagsu Nag Waterfall trek. It is about a kilometer trek through the ups-n-downs and twist-n-turns of the graphite mountains. Probably not the best time to visit the waterfall as it was merely a narrow stream of water running down the slope that time. But we thoroughly enjoyed the trek, the valley and the omelette we had. Oh yea...not to forget the photo shoot on the stones!!


On our way back, we visited the Bhagsu Nag Temple - dedicated to the snake God & Lord Shiva. Our last stop in McLeodganj was the Dal [read dull] Lake. The water was muddy, and the paddle boats were all wrecked. However, the oaks & pines that surround the lake, puts it on every tourists must-visit list.


We left Dal lake around noon, and were now speeding through the ghaats in rush to reach Patni Top before the night falls. The road we took was through Punjab and I really couldn't, understand why we had to go thru Punjab to reach J&K when we already were in Himachal :(. But since we were on a Fixed Bid project and not T&M [lol...tough to restrain the software engineer], we really didn't bother much about the route our driver chose. [tubelights....fixed bid = we were to pay the driver on per day basis; T&M = time & material = need to pay per kilometer]. But it turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as on this trip itself, we got to see another border [after Wagha border]; this time Punjab - J&K border. We made a stop at Madhopur, a border village, where we savored Punjab's famous daal makhni & chana masala yet again.

After a routine RTO check on the border, we.....we......we......
Oops....I don't remember what happened after the check post. My next memory is of being terribly shaken by Nitesh asking me to get up and get out of the taxi as we had reached PatniTop and need to inquire about the hotels. Hmmmm ... I think I slept after that heavy lunch-cum-evening snack! Even though he had already asked about the tariff at the only hotel in the vicinity, he still dragged me out to have a look around. And damn was it cold that night!! The chilliest night of our tour so far. Without wasting another minute we checked-in to the hotel and while he still could brave the cold and have dinner, it was already Good Night for me!

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My two cents for travelers visiting McLeodganj & 4 Devi

1. Plan the journey such that you can visit all the 4 Devi's in this region. I have been told the treck to Naina Devi is beautiful.
2. Avoid parathas at road-side restaurants. Ask Nitesh why?
3. Those visiting Dharamshala, should surely visit McLeodganj. Commercialization is yet to spoil this place.
   
4. The Tsuglagkhang Temple is opened till only 8pm, so keep track of time when visiting McLeodganj.
5. 8kms ahead of Dal Lake is Naddi - a scenic tourist spot. One must visit this place if time permits.
6. For those who love to trek and are excited about snow, Dharamkot is the place to be. Several treks are organized to & from Daramkot, which is a village on the outskirts of McLeodganj.
7. Avail the best hotel deals in off seasons. Bargain as much as you can [applies when out for shopping too]
8. Try hot-beer [beer with honey and herbs] at the local pubs. It gives a better kick than the routine one ;)