Part III - Travelogues from my trip to the North

Day 6: The only reason why Patni Top was on our list was SNOW; and even though the place received less than average snowfall this year [thanks to Global Warming], places around Patni Top had much to offer. We decided to go to one such place called Nattha Top, which is 12kms north of Patni Top. Quickly gobbling up a couple of Aaloo Parathas and a bowl full of hot Manchow soup [a weird yet tasty combo], we set out for Nattha Top. But only after we rented all the winter wear we possibly could get our hands on - monkey caps, overcoats, hand-gloves, boots!

The au naturel mountains on one side and the snow laden ones on the other, made the 25 minutes drive to Nattha Top picturesque in its own unique way. At Nattha Top we were greeted by a herd of sledge-waalas, each wanting us to take a ride on his slide. Nattha Top was no Gulmarg or Sonmarg, but it had enough snow to give us the thrill and the sledge ride only added to the adrenaline rush. Getting down the slope and climbing up was fun; making snow balls and throwing at each other was fun; watching others slip and slide on the snow was fun; and experiencing the same slip ourselves and getting caught on camera while doing so....was fun too!! After spending a good couple of hours in the white, having fun, we finally bid adieu to Nattha Top, and left for our pen-ultimate destination on the trip: Vaishno Devi.


Katra, which is about 170kms from Patni Top, by all means is a town that developed solely because of the devotees coming to Vaishno Devi. This place has a bus stop, a railway booking center, dry fruit shops, restaurants & numerous hotels, but that's about it! It took us 4 hours to reach there following NH1A, and soon we checked-in to a hotel [again thanks to the off season, the rates were dirt cheap] and straight went to have some authentic vaishno food [veg food prepared without onion & garlic]. This was where we left the taxi which we hired in Amritsar; must say a great driver - no tantrums, safe driving, and knowledgeable indeed.

By 5pm we were already deliberating whether we should start the trek now, or should wait until night fall. We decided to start early to give ourselves enough time the next day to enjoy the city of Jammu. We reached Bandganga, the starting point of the trek to the Darbaar, at 7:30pm. Here that you have to go through multiple security checks, and in peak season you probably will have to wait here for hours together for your batch number [need to take it from Katra bus stand] to be called. By 8:00pm we cleared all the checks and actually embarked on the 12.5km trek.

My last visit to Vaishno Devi was about 12 years ago. A lot had changed [for good] since then. The entire trek has been paved with pavement blocks now, numerous shops flank the road on either side till about 3kms, there are restrooms at every 500mtrs, rest stops at every 250 mtrs, and big & small refreshment points scattered all along the trek. The Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board has done a commendable job here.

We covered the initial couple of kilometers in a real rush - 3kms/hour - some speed for a trek! But that was the fastest we managed to go through out the trek; it was continuous deceleration after that. Hymns and songs being played at the shops add to the entire ambiance, and keeps your spirits high and fatigue at bay. But once the shops are left behind and the trek starts to get lonely, you feel the weakness in your legs, you follow the milestones closely, you repeatedly look at your watch and think of what else you could be doing at this hour. But call it the divine intervention or whatever, never at any point you think of quitting. All along the trek people greet each other by saying Jai Maata Di and pump up the spirits shouting slogans like Zor se Bolo - Jai Mata Di, Saare Bolo - Jai Mata Di!


It was 10:30pm and barely 250mtrs from Ardh Kumari, when I spotted a Nescafe shop serving HOT Maggi - trust me, that was the best snack I could have had at that moment. And hey, did I tell you...Cafe Coffee Day was there too :D

At Ardh Kuwari, we were surprised to see quite a bit of rush. The queues were long and moving at snail's speed. We put all out belonging [mobiles, shoes, wrist-watches, spare clothes, backpacks] in the cloak room, took another batch number slip, and joined the queue. As time passed by, it started getting colder and the chilly winds made the matter worse. It took us about 2 hours before we could enter the sacred cave, popularly known as the Garbhjoon [see here or here to know why is it called so].

Day 7: Once we came out of the cave, we decided to take the new route to the Darbaar which was via Himkoti [instead of the old one via Hathi Mattha & Saanjhi Chatt]. The route bore a deserted look - the rest 5.5kms we hardly saw anyone pass by. We took ample of breaks this time, and reached the main Darbaar at about 3am. That is when reality shook us - we were supposed to take a bath before entering the holy cave!! Pheww! Ice cold water, at 3am ... well I could only wash my face and feet with it, but Nitesh did brave the cold and went all the way.We put all our belongings in the lockers at the Darbaar, and went straight to the holy cave.

There was no limit to our joys when we were allowed to go in the Temple through the ancient choti-gufa [small cave]. This is usually closed for most part of the year. Barely a couple of feet wide, this cave leads straight to the Temple where the Devi is present in the form of pindi. Inside the Temple there are 3 pindis - Saraswati Maata, Vaishno Maata & Kaali Maata. Unlike last time, when we were literally pushed out of the temple by huge crowds behind us, this time we could peacefully perform our prayers, and even got to talk to the priests.

But Nitesh was caught in some consfusion and came out of the temple, without actually seeing the pindis were placed. That was heartbreaking! We decided to go in again, BUT..you just cannot do that. The security officers denied even after our repeated requests. Just when we were about to leave with our stuff, the officer yelled at us, and said Jaldi Bhago Andar [move in fast]. Yippieeee ... darshan for the second time that very night ... must have done something really good on this trip!!

Completely tired by the trek and lack of sleep, we decided to do the last bit of our trek [to Bhariro Temple] on ponies - a good decision considering the fact that it's a very steep incline beyond the main Darbaar. By the time we reached the Bhairo Temple, it got so cold that I put on every piece of winter wear I had on me; I looked more like a dacoit from Chambal.


After the darshan, we started our decent and it was anything but fast - we would rest every 15 minutes, at times even at lesser intervals. After enjoying the sun rise at Ardh Kuwari, we caught some speed and came down real quick. But the very sight of 8-10 men pulling a cart up the hill with all their might, made me feel really bad :( Once we came down to from where we started, I treated myself to some really coarse body massage; and boy was that some relief!!


We then quickly rushed to get our train tickets from Jammu to Delhi, and then checked-out from the hotel around 1pm. Our train to Delhi was at 9:30pm, so we had quite some time to enjoy Jammu. We had our lunch at Katra, and then took a bus to Jammu, dumped our luggage in the cloak room, hired an auto-rickshaw and off we were...on a short tour of our final destination: Jammu.

Our first stop in Jammu was the famous Raghunath Temple, which after the attack on it in 2002, seem more like a fortress. This Temple had an idol of every single God I have heard of in my life; and I have heard of quite a few. A nicely built, huge Temple complex marred by only one thing - the priests here kinda force you to give donation - something which made me feel a bit awkward.

Other than the Raghunath Temple, Jammu is also very famous for Dry Fruits, which is a big business here. I didn't want to miss out on my share of Jammu's dry fruits, so we went to the wholesale dry fruit market, and shopped to our hearts content - dried apple, dried akmool, dried peach, raisins, apricots! After this we left for the Baag-e-Bahu garden, which am sure must be very good, but I found it disappointing - probably because I was damn tired by then, or may be it was getting dark. This place really didn't live up to my expectations. Now only one last thing to do before we would call it a day - one final drink!!


By the time we finished our drinks and dinner, it was almost time for our train. After 40 hours without the sleep, all we could think of at that moment was our berths in the train. Chained our luggage, spread our bedsheets, hung our boots and zzzZZZ! zzzzzZZZZZ!! zzzzzzzZZZZZZZ!!!

Day 8: Today was going to be our rest day, a family day. We reached New Delhi in the morning around 11:30, and headed straight to my grand parents home. A quiet family affair then, talked to some relatives, caught up with some sleep, went to a temple with grand parents, Pizza Hut with my cousins, and that was about it. The day ended really fast, and there we were, yet again at the Nizamuddin station, from where we boarded our train to Indore.

Day 9: Finally it was coming to an end. Our trip which had everything....

Lakes, Mountains, Valleys, Plains
Temples, Pubs, Monuments, Memorials
Trains, Buses, Cars, Rickshaws, Sledges
Humor, Emotion, Devotion!

It all would end in just a few more hours. Nonetheless, all this will always be with us in the form of numerous pics, videos and now these travelogues. Kudos to technology!!

When the train arrived at Indore station, we shared high fives and hugs once again, and bid adieu. The trip - Finally Over!!

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My two cents for travelers visiting Patni Top & Vaishno Devi

1. Bargain as much as you can with people at Nattha Top. We got the sledge ride for 75/person [initial price 300/person]
2. Don't forget to take the Batch Number Slip from the Katra bus stand. This is valid for 6 hours, but you need to keep it with you till the end. It is needed at the Darbaar, and only then you are allowed the entry.
3. Do not bargain with the pitthus, paalki-walaas or the people who operate the horses. The rates are fixed by the Shrine Board.
   
4. For those suffering from any disability or health problems, you can avail the chopper services from Katra [Charges: 2700/- adult, 1300/- kid]. One may also avail the services of Battery operated rickshaws that un between Ard Kuwari and Darbaar.
   
5. Take the new route to Darbaar from Ard Kuwari. It is shorter, the incline is less steep, and the route is free from horse-shit :)
6. I found only one shop at the Darbaar which was selling the Prasaad packets. So take note of that shop while you go through your security check at the Darbaar
7. Do not carry cameras, mobile phones, watches, pens, combs etc to Raghunath temple, as these are banned inside
8. Finally, anyone who seeks more information, feel free to mail me at aagarwal8@gmail.com, and I would be glad to help in whichever way I can