Two Travelers - Three States - Five Cities - Seven Days - Ten Destinations!! Not the mathemagic any travel guide would suggest. But who can stop the determined. Leaving boredom and frustration behind, we [I & my buddy Nitesh] set out on an action packed journey to the Northern states of Punjab, Himachal and J&K. Why action packed? B'coz the action started well before we reached our first pit-stop: Amritsar.
The Journey to Amritsar
Day 1: Sharing high fives and broad smiles, we boarded the train to Delhi on a hot sweaty afternoon; and true to my history of traveling in trains, even this time I had a dull all-male co-passenger compartment. Nothing interesting here....
Day 2: Numerous trains ferry passengers between Delhi & Amritsar - at least this is what I thought when I planned the trip, and took the chance of not making the reservation for this route. How wrong was I proved when we finally had to board the General compartment of the train; only to find ourselves seated on the edge of a wooden plank already being shared by 6 other passengers [though I certainly did not mind the presence of the one sitting right next to me - a chic chick - another causality of over-confidence]. However, all good things come to an end, and to our dismay, our only hope of somehow bearing the general compartment got off at the very next station. Our patience didn't last too long, and we too got off after a tiring couple of hours.
Taking our chances we moved to the Sleeper coach, completely unaware of what awaited us in there - a drunk surd, who beat the s**t out of us when the spirits got the better of him. I get goosebumps when I think of that empty coach with a bunch of surds, one of them completely sozzled, going crazy, asking us to get off and travel Punjab with him; if not, at least spend a night at his place and then continue the journey. Damn him and his motives!!
The Land of Warriors - Amritsar, Punjab
Day 3: After having spent a good couple of hours hotel-cum-food hunting at night, we were in no mood to get out of the bed early; and the chilly winds outside gave us another reason for not doing so. But the very thought of the places we had to visit and the time we had, got us out on road - this time taxi-hunting. But this hunt didn't last long, and soon we were off to Jaliawala Bagh; but not before we had a sumptuous lunch at Bharanwan da Dhaba.
What happened on April 13, 1919 at Jaliawala Bagh is ingrained in every Indian's mind. The moment you step inside the memorial, the massacre suddenly comes alive in your head; the moment you see the bullet marks on the walls, all your history lessons flash in front of your eyes. You can't help but feel for those trapped inside on that fateful day. It's a feeling so heavy, you want to move out ASAP.
But only a minutes walk from the memorial is Harmandir Sahib, popularly known as The Golden Temple - place where the eternal guru of Sikhs, Sri Guru Granth Sahib, is present. People from all walks of life and religion are welcomes at this holy place, and the four entrances to the temple [in all four direction] signify the same. But what strikes you the most about any Gurudwara across the world is the seva which the Sikhs perform there. People would swipe the floor, take care of others' shoes, serve food at langars, wash utensils and perform every task that one would want to have a servant for - a gesture missing at most other religious places.
Being 26th Jan, a national holiday in India, the temple was flooded with devotees from far and wide. The ceremony at Wagah Border was something we did not want to miss; so we planned to return to Golden Temple early next day [an advice I will always be thankful for to our driver]. The drive to Wagah Border is about 40 mins from the city, and for the first time we came across the lush green fields Punjab is so famous for.
But as soon as you reach the border, you suddenly feel an overwhelming surge of patriotism and sense of belonging to the nation. People here gathered from all over the country to see the 'Lowering of the Flags' parade, and Republic Day celebrations only added to the fervor. Amidst loud slogans of Hindustan Zindabaad, Bharat Mata ki Jai & Vande Maatram, students from Khalsa college performed Giddha [folk dance of Punjab which females perform] and Bhangra [folk dance of Punjab which males perform]. The enthusiasm reached its peak when the spiffy B.S.F and Pakistan Rangers' soldiers started an aggressive & thrilling march towards the gate at the border. The ceremony culminates after the national flags are lowered and finally removed from the flag-posts. However, the enthusiasm of the crowds and feeling of patriotism doesn't end there - you take them back as souvenirs from the border, often called the Berlin Wall of Asia.
There is one more thing very famous about Amritsar - The Non-Veg, and being a hardcore non veggie, I just could not miss out on this one. The dinner had to be 100% non-veg, and I made sure so it was. Roasted Chicken, Amritsari Fish and Bacardi - quite a dinner I would say!!
Day 4: As they say, 'Leave the Best for the Last', we did just that by revisiting the Golden Temple at 4:30am, and what we saw was simply MAJESTIC. The temple glowed in middle of the Amrit Sarovar, as if a burning wick in a lamp. You reach the main temple following the Parikrama in a clockwise direction. While we were standing along side other solemn devotees, waiting to get inside the Darbar Sahib, I just could not take my eyes off the skilled craftsmanship & the intricate designs on the gold plated facade of the temple. Inside the temple, there is a continuous recitation of scriptures from the holy book. As we came out of the main shrine, we were amazed to see the temple disappear in thick fog. It was like, the building was there 5 minutes before, and gone now. Magical!!
Completely awed by the beauty and serenity of the Golden Temple, we left the temple complex and headed straight to our next pit-stop: Chintpoorni Devi & McLeodganj in Himachal.
My two cents for travelers visiting Amritsar:
The Journey to Amritsar
Day 1: Sharing high fives and broad smiles, we boarded the train to Delhi on a hot sweaty afternoon; and true to my history of traveling in trains, even this time I had a dull all-male co-passenger compartment. Nothing interesting here....
Day 2: Numerous trains ferry passengers between Delhi & Amritsar - at least this is what I thought when I planned the trip, and took the chance of not making the reservation for this route. How wrong was I proved when we finally had to board the General compartment of the train; only to find ourselves seated on the edge of a wooden plank already being shared by 6 other passengers [though I certainly did not mind the presence of the one sitting right next to me - a chic chick - another causality of over-confidence]. However, all good things come to an end, and to our dismay, our only hope of somehow bearing the general compartment got off at the very next station. Our patience didn't last too long, and we too got off after a tiring couple of hours.
Taking our chances we moved to the Sleeper coach, completely unaware of what awaited us in there - a drunk surd, who beat the s**t out of us when the spirits got the better of him. I get goosebumps when I think of that empty coach with a bunch of surds, one of them completely sozzled, going crazy, asking us to get off and travel Punjab with him; if not, at least spend a night at his place and then continue the journey. Damn him and his motives!!
The Land of Warriors - Amritsar, Punjab
Day 3: After having spent a good couple of hours hotel-cum-food hunting at night, we were in no mood to get out of the bed early; and the chilly winds outside gave us another reason for not doing so. But the very thought of the places we had to visit and the time we had, got us out on road - this time taxi-hunting. But this hunt didn't last long, and soon we were off to Jaliawala Bagh; but not before we had a sumptuous lunch at Bharanwan da Dhaba.
What happened on April 13, 1919 at Jaliawala Bagh is ingrained in every Indian's mind. The moment you step inside the memorial, the massacre suddenly comes alive in your head; the moment you see the bullet marks on the walls, all your history lessons flash in front of your eyes. You can't help but feel for those trapped inside on that fateful day. It's a feeling so heavy, you want to move out ASAP.
But only a minutes walk from the memorial is Harmandir Sahib, popularly known as The Golden Temple - place where the eternal guru of Sikhs, Sri Guru Granth Sahib, is present. People from all walks of life and religion are welcomes at this holy place, and the four entrances to the temple [in all four direction] signify the same. But what strikes you the most about any Gurudwara across the world is the seva which the Sikhs perform there. People would swipe the floor, take care of others' shoes, serve food at langars, wash utensils and perform every task that one would want to have a servant for - a gesture missing at most other religious places.
Being 26th Jan, a national holiday in India, the temple was flooded with devotees from far and wide. The ceremony at Wagah Border was something we did not want to miss; so we planned to return to Golden Temple early next day [an advice I will always be thankful for to our driver]. The drive to Wagah Border is about 40 mins from the city, and for the first time we came across the lush green fields Punjab is so famous for.
But as soon as you reach the border, you suddenly feel an overwhelming surge of patriotism and sense of belonging to the nation. People here gathered from all over the country to see the 'Lowering of the Flags' parade, and Republic Day celebrations only added to the fervor. Amidst loud slogans of Hindustan Zindabaad, Bharat Mata ki Jai & Vande Maatram, students from Khalsa college performed Giddha [folk dance of Punjab which females perform] and Bhangra [folk dance of Punjab which males perform]. The enthusiasm reached its peak when the spiffy B.S.F and Pakistan Rangers' soldiers started an aggressive & thrilling march towards the gate at the border. The ceremony culminates after the national flags are lowered and finally removed from the flag-posts. However, the enthusiasm of the crowds and feeling of patriotism doesn't end there - you take them back as souvenirs from the border, often called the Berlin Wall of Asia.
There is one more thing very famous about Amritsar - The Non-Veg, and being a hardcore non veggie, I just could not miss out on this one. The dinner had to be 100% non-veg, and I made sure so it was. Roasted Chicken, Amritsari Fish and Bacardi - quite a dinner I would say!!
Day 4: As they say, 'Leave the Best for the Last', we did just that by revisiting the Golden Temple at 4:30am, and what we saw was simply MAJESTIC. The temple glowed in middle of the Amrit Sarovar, as if a burning wick in a lamp. You reach the main temple following the Parikrama in a clockwise direction. While we were standing along side other solemn devotees, waiting to get inside the Darbar Sahib, I just could not take my eyes off the skilled craftsmanship & the intricate designs on the gold plated facade of the temple. Inside the temple, there is a continuous recitation of scriptures from the holy book. As we came out of the main shrine, we were amazed to see the temple disappear in thick fog. It was like, the building was there 5 minutes before, and gone now. Magical!!
Completely awed by the beauty and serenity of the Golden Temple, we left the temple complex and headed straight to our next pit-stop: Chintpoorni Devi & McLeodganj in Himachal.
My two cents for travelers visiting Amritsar:
- Lot of cheap hotels [Rs 300-700] are available near the railway station with decent lodging facilities. However, bargaining might not work at these places.
- Hire a taxi [Rs 700-800] or an Auto-Rickshaw [Rs 400-500] for local sight-seeing. Jaliawal Bagh, Golden Temple & Wagah Border are must-visit locations. Durgiana Temple, Company Bagh, Town Hall, and Taran Taran are few other places you can visit if you have enough time.
- Visit Golden Temple twice - once during the day time, and once at night [must visit]. If possible, plan to visit the temple when the Holy Book is carried to the Akaal Takhth from the Darbar Sahib - a procession that takes place late in the evening [check at the temple for the exact time as it depends on the lunar calendar].
- Travel light to Wagah Border, and try to reach early [around 3:30pm] as the parade starts sharp at 5:00pm and the crowds can get really big on special occasions. Try to get a seat in the area next to the Welcome Gate, as the view is best from there.
- Do sample non-veg in Amritsar, as the tastes different [for the better] that the non-veg you might have eaten anywhere else .
- Do sample desi gud ki sharab - more of a delicacy; your taxi driver can certainly help you out in getting the right mix.
- Lastly, do not get into a brawl with the local police [as I have been told, Punjab Police is the toughest to handle, and doesn't bother about your sources in the system]
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